Monday, December 31, 2007

Happy New Year!!!

Here we are wishing you all a Happy New Year!!!
We had a great time in Treasure Cay, lovely beach and wonderful weather. To make the most of it we stayed Saturday night as well, so Sunday morning we woke up really early and sailed back to Marsh Harbour. By 10 we were back. We had planned to stay at a marina so that we could do all our laundry. I went by my guide book and chose a marina where we found out, after we had tied up, that the laundry was not working. Themarina next door did have laundry, so although Juan complained and huffed and puffed and groaned, we moved.
The kids left and are all safely back home. In the meantime we have been cleaning, and washing and organizing: we had four loads of laundry each, so that took up most of the day yesterday. Today we went shopping and continued doing stuff. Nothing glamorous, just work and organizing. Idette's blackberry seems to have died so she spent over four hours today talking to T-mobile and downloading software only to find out she will have to get a new set!
Last night I cooked (Moroccan) and tonight Idette cooked our New Year's dinner: ham, vegetables and wonderful Italian bread. We were hoping to have some champagne at midnight, but Juan and Mike passed out at about 9, Idette and I stayed out listening to the band playing in the restaurant right next the marina (imported from Nassau!), got to see some early bird fireworks and then she also conked out, so here I am at 10:45 writing this post and also ready for bed!
So tomorrow mimosas! That's where the champagne is going! The band is blasting out there but Zingaro and Sweet Tides snore!
New Year is when they celebrate carnival in the Bahamas, it's called Juncanoo. The best Juncanoo is supposedly in Nassau, but around this area it's Green Turtle Cay. The cruisers have organized a trip by bus and ferry so we have signed up for it and will go party. As long as it's during the day we can take it!
After that we will see what the weather brings. A cold front is on its way with very high winds so we may have to stay put for a few days.

Saturday, December 29, 2007

Green Turtles in Treasure Cay ...


The golf cart ride in Guana was not a big success, mainly because the roads that go to to the north of the island stop at a new development that occupies the whole peninsula, there are beaches on both sides but not snorkeling which is what we were after. To the south we could find no road. So after having lunch on a covered pier just before the Baker's Point development we returned the cart, with a partial refund, and headed back to the beach where we had been for the last two days.
We considered dinghying to Fowl Cay where apparently is the best snorkeling in the area, and actually tried going out, but turned back. The next day when we went out with the boats we were very glad we didn't even attempt it, it was at least four miles out. And once you get there you have to cross the cut, go out in the ocean and tie to the mooring balls (in the dinghy of course). It did not look doable. If the day had been calm we might have attempted to anchor the boats and go out in the dinghy but it was too windy. But given it was too windy and after all, we are sailboats, we opened the sails had a wonderful run all the way to Treasure Cay.
According to the guide this is the most beautiful beach in the Abacos. I still think Guana is more beautiful but this comes a close second. A lovely bay with calm blue waters looking at the Atlantic but protected by several islands in the distance. The anchorage is in a bay within the development so you pay 10 dollars but have access to all their facilities. And there are green turtles that come up and spy on you while you go out in your dinghy!
P.S. I thought I would post a picture of the reporter for a change. I asked for a young, thin picture but I don't think the photographer tried hard enough.

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Paradise continued


There's nippers and there's grabbers and each has their own deadly rum concoction. Nippers is on the beach and at 10 am you already see people sitting there drinking either nippers or kaliks, the local beer. The public docks get filled with small motor boats that come from all over to the beach and to nippers.
Grabbers faces West so it's for sunset drinks, strong drinks. And the sunset yesterday was spectacular, the night sky even more so. And best of all we woke up to a bright sunny day, practically no wind and temperatures reaching 80 for the first time since we arrived.
Yesterday we snorkeled off the rocks and the water was very pleasant, not at all cold. The snorkeling was alright, there were some fish at least to get us started. Today we are going to rent a golf cart and load our snorkeling gear and start exploring the island.
We continue to have wonderful meals, last night it was Idette's turn to prepare a Mexican feast, with chicken fajitas, rice, beans, guacamole, and everything else. Today we are going to have to swim a LOT to be able to use up all those calories!!

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Paradise at last!

Finally!! We have been in the Abacos for a week and between the very shallow waters and the instability of the weather we had started to seriously consider heading south as soon as the Sweet Tides kids left. But yesterday we left Elboy Cay, tiptoeing around the bay because it was again shallow, shallow and pointed to Guana Cay, which is the first island after you come into the Sea of Abacos, the longest and the least inhabited. The bay where we moored is very small, there are only 4 sailboats. But the beach is spectacular! Long stretch of pink sands, peppered with rocks to snorkel from.  So if you have no news for a while you know why!

Monday, December 24, 2007

Merry Christmas!!!!!!

The Sweet Tides managed to get together at last. Michael made it on the 4:15 ferry!! Zingaro will share the holiday with them while our thoughts are all spread out, in Arlington with Joanna and Sophia, in Brazil and Uruguay with our family and friends, and in the DC area with all our friends (plus some that are in Peru and Venezuela! and those blanketed in snow in Vermont! and those in Arizona is it? or back in Georgia?) We will be toasting you all tonight. It will be midnight in Brazil and Uruguay but I assure you it will not be midnight for those on EST, because we have been going to bed so early it's pitiful. We are giddy with joy when we make it to nine! and that is hardly ever!
The weather in the Abacos sucks really, it's never sunny for too long, so we have not been swimming or snorkeling. Juan says we will give it to January 6th, if it hasn't improved by then we're off to the Exumas. At least the further south we go the warmer it will get!
This week we'll be going around the islands with the young Sweet Tides, when they leave we'll see what we do.
I am feeling a bit nostalgic today but it's Zingaro's fate to never be completely whole anywhere: if we are here we miss being there, if we're there we freeze, you get the picture. Next Christmas it will be Uruguay!!!

Friday, December 21, 2007

It never rains in the Bahamas!


So it never rains in the Bahamas, right? Wrong, wrong, wrong. (Natalie don't read this.) When it started Juan and Mike went out with their brushes to wash the salt off the boat, then I went out with my shampoo. Of course it stopped when I had foam all over and had to open the shower on the swimming platform and use the water I was trying to save.
When I was all dry it started again and has not stopped.
Obviously I did not go snorkeling, instead I finished my translations, sent invoices, responded to all my holiday emails, and now I am updating my blog. If I don't find something else to do quickly Juan will have me cleaning something in no time!!
But hey! the goddess of uncleanliness is looking after me because I see the clouds opening and maybe we'll get to go to town!!

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Manjack Cay


One month and two days after we left Herrington Harbor, we are finally in cruising mood. We anchored here last night and the anchor held firmly all night long and all day today. Juan and Mike have been trying to fix Sweet Tides´ windlass but so far have not been successful. Mike ordered a part that will be delivered to Natalie, but suddenly now they believe the part will not solve the problem. However, after a nice dinner cooked by Mike on the grill tonight and several glasses of red wine, we have decided that the windlass is not a major problem and it will not spoil our trip. He can always throw the anchor by hand if need be. 
This morning, one of the trawlers that was in West End, Spartina, and that had also anchored here, came over in their dinghy to visit and suggested we make sandwiches and have a picnic on the beach. They already had their dinghy in the water and took all of us. It was really nice although not quite warm enough for us to go swimming. Although Mike did go in the water when we came back. We had a hair cutting session: Idette and I cut Juan and Mike's hair and I must say we did a pretty good job. Especially if you don´t look too close. 
The plan now is to go across the Whale passage tomorrow to go to Marsh Harbor and give Green Turtle Cay a pass for the time being. We will be back afterwards. Now it´s best if we are already past the last hurdle and all set for their kids´arrival. 
The last hurdle being the passage out into the ocean and back into the Sea of Abaco, around Whale Cay. According to the guide book, if the weather is not good it can be a very rough passage. You have to go across with the ebbing tide so we are timing ourselves make it in time. If we get there and don´t like it, we´ll come back to Green Turtle Cay. 
Manjack has been great, not only because it´s beautiful but also because its generous inhabitants broadcast wi fi from one of the two houses on land!

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Abacos here we come!!


I thought I had managed to post on the blog with the blackberry but obviously I did not. We left West End without problems and travelled the whole day all the way to Great Sale Cay. It was windy and rolly but we did ok.  
Eight boats left West End in the morning and they were all at the anchorage in the evening. Very protected in spite of the wind. We anchored and as we waited for Sweet Tides, Juan decided it would be safer if we did not raft up because the wind was blowing almost 20 knots. But when Sweet Tides tried to anchor their windlass did not work. So they did raft up with us and we had a very calm night because the wind died down. And since it was Juan's birthday we were able to celebrate. 
Today we left at eight and arrived in Manjack Cay which is next door to Green Turtle Cay. A beautiful anchorage with crystal clear waters. It's been a month and a day since we left Herrington Harbor and today we can say we have arrived. It' s not beach weather yet, the northerlies were strong so temperatures are only on the 70s, but will be increasing towards the weekend. The signal is not good enough to send pictures but as soon as we get some decent wifi we'll post some.
Thank you all for your birthday wishes for Juan, we wish you had been here with us!
(I can post with my blackberry, as long as I write the email address correctly, duhhh!)

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Windy, windy, windy

About 25 boats arrived from Florida between Friday and Saturday to this marina, and we are all still here. The wind is howling at over 30 knots and nobody is budging. Actually a small trawler ventured out this morning but immediately returned. To go into the banks you have to leave the marina, sail about a mile into the ocean to get back into the channel that leads you into the banks. And that passage looks really nasty right now. Hopefully tomorrow will be better and we'll be able to leave. If not we might have to stay put until Tuesday. We could be stuck in a much worse place. The marina is nice, it has nice facilities, a gym, a couple of restaurants, a heated pool and of course a lovely beach. But of course although it is warm it's not beach weather. So we are doing housekeeping stuff. Sweet Tides are working on putting their room back together after it got all wet during the crossing - they inadvertently left the hatch open and the waves washed over the boat all the time. Juan is waxing and cleaning - when it stops raining - and I am writing my blog. As soon as I am done I just might go and take a nap! 

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Quick update and test



Apparently I can post from my blackberry so I am testing.
Both Mike and Zingaro are much better so we may continue our adventures together. Mike only needed a good night' s sleep and Zingaro' s strut seems firmly in place (Juan went in the water) and did some tests, hosing the boat in areas where water could be coming in and it was positive. The waves washed over us all the time and that could have been the culprit.
Things are looking up.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Friday, December 14, 2007

West End, Bahamas

The bloglins will really have a feast with this post.
We have had practically no rain this trip, but with Olga, things changed. Once we had finished with everything we had to do on land, we left the marina and anchored nearer the inlet so it would be easier to leave in the morning. As soon as we left it started to rain really hard. The entrance to the anchorage was tricky because it had some very shallow spots. We anchored first and waited for Sweet Tides, and waited and waited. They ran aground and the only way to get them out was calling Tow Boat US. So now we also have a picture of Sweet Tides being towed by TBUS, no jealousy there. We tied together and looked at the weather again: 10 to 15 knots, decreasing in the afternoon, waves 2 to 4 feet. We decided we would wake up at 2 am look at the weather and decide whether to leave then or later. It rained all night, hard. At 2 it was raining, at 4 it was raining at 5:30 it was raining. Finally at 6:30 it stopped and the radar showed no more thunderstorms between Florida and the Bahamas so we set off.
It was a horrible ride. Bucking broncos Idette said we should call it. Wind 15 to 20 on our nose and waves 4 to 6 and sometimes higher, running against us, so we were constantly pounding. Awful. We still caught a couple of storms on the way but not big. Three hours to landfall, when Juan went down to look at the shaft yet again because he was still worried about it and not happy with the vibration, he saw there was water, not a lot, but some. First he thought it might come from the stuffing box, but then realized to his dismay that it was coming from the same place where it had been repaired. It was filtering through the casing. He put some epoxy on it and managed to stop the water. But of course he was extremely worried. 
They were the three longest hours of the trip, but we managed to get to West End, to stop at the marina and do customs.
Mike also arrived feeling awful and went straight to bed but he will be feeling better tomorrow, Zingaro won't. 
I think we will have to part ways with Sweet Tides for a while. They have to go to Marsh Harbor to meet their children, so we have spoken with Idette, looked a the charts and now that the worst is over she thinks they will have not problems continuing on their own. They will do short legs and go straight to Marsh Harbor. 
We have spoken to a large boat yard in Freeport, which is 17 miles from West End. We will take Zingaro there and will not leave until we are sure it is repaired. Juan will dive tomorrow and put some epoxy around the strut to make sure we won't have any problems making it to Freeport, and we will try to go when the wind changes so that we can actually sail the 17 miles and use the engine as little as possible!
Once we are all fixed we will meet up with Sweet Tides!!
To be continued...

Thursday, December 13, 2007

Bloglins

According to Idette my blog has acquired a life of its own. When things get too quiet and the blog starts getting boring it conjures mishaps so I can talk about them. Actually I didn't need this last "happening" to talk about adventures. I think the blog punishes my laziness because coming into this marina with strong winds was adventure enough. We came in first, with Juan already complaining about the marina being really bad. There were three guys waiting for us, which should have given us a clue. We turned into the slip and while I was throwing the line to one of the guys, Juan was jumping in and out of the cockpit holding on to pilings to keep us straight. In one of those leaps he scratched his knee and started bleeding.
Then Sweet Tides started coming in on our port side, and as Idette turned to get into the slip the wind, which was strong and coming from her starboard, pushed them out completely into the channel where the fuel dock and a big boat were. There was another guy at that pier that took one of their lines and after a lot of work , between him and the three other guys plus Juan, they managed to get them in. Idette says she was really nervous because she thought they would never manage to turn the boat. But they did.
So well I should have told that story and that would have been more than enough.
But no. We had another "adventure" this morning.
Juan always gets up much earlier than me, and although for 35 years I have told him I do not hear noises when I am sleeping but I hate to have the doors closed, with the best of intentions of course, he always gets up and closes both doors.
Today I woke up feeling hot and stuffy. I couldn't breathe properly. So I complained again about him closing the doors. The room smelled of sulfur, I am sure he had bad thoughts about me and did not say anything. But after a while the whole boat smelled.
We had changed the propane and started to smell the tanks and lather them with foam to see if the leak was coming from there. We even asked Mike to smell his tanks to see if Sweet Tides had a leak.
After a lot of sniffing we discovered the source. The battery banks are under our bed and one of the banks was boiling and filling up the room with sulfuric acid!! I could have been poisoned!! We have got rid of the batteries, bought new ones, and now everything is back to normal. We are just waiting for Sweet Tides to finish filling its tanks so that we can be off to the anchorage.
Ok blog, enough now. We want a very boring, easy crossing and so that I do not lack adventures my next posting will deal with the propeller and Autoprop's answer to their malfunction!! We need to start getting the word out about their lousy expensive product and worse customer service.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Getting ready


We spent three days at anchor in Lake Worth and today we moved to a marina further South, nearer the inlet to get ready. As marinas go very basic, more of a yard. The wifi they said they had, only connects if you sit next to their office. It´s very windy and there are mosquitoes so this will be a short post.
We have fueled up, charged the batteries, filled up with water, done the washing and provisioned. The boats are full, really full of food. I do not think we will starve. Not even close.
The weather seems to be holding true to the forecast so we should be leaving at around 3 am on Friday. Tomorrow we return the car at noon, and leave the marina to anchor across from where we are to spend the day resting and getting ready to go! We can´t wait.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Waiting for weather

We arrived here in Lake Worth on Sunday after an almost uneventful trip. Juan and Mike were happily chatting on the walkie talkies commenting on the nice houses along the way and suddenly we went hard aground, I almost fell of my seat. Luckily we quickly got out. Sweet Tides followed us and did the same. It took them a little longer to get out, luckily a power boat went by, created ripples and Idette ably got it out!
Lake Worth if full of boats waiting for weather to cross. We met the crew of one of them yesterday as we landed our dinghy to go to the Supermarket, a Saga 43 from Annapolis. and they should be crossing at the same time. From what we have been hearing of the weather we should be able to cross on Friday, we will leave at 2 or 3 a.m. so as to arrive in West End early and go on into the banks, maybe to Sale Cay.
Tomorrow we will go to a marina to fuel up, fill up the water tanks, the batteries and get a last whiff of wifi before setting off. We will also rent a car to buy some more provisions. Thursday night we will probably anchor near the entrance to the inlet to be ready to go. Of course all these plans will depend on whether the weather in fact will do what it is supposed to: 5 to 10 knot winds, 2 to 3 foot waves from the S. We'll see. Photos will follow.

Sunday, December 9, 2007

Super Marco to the rescue


Yesterday as we were motor sailing down Mike noticed a tear on his sail, so this morning before breakfast Marco helped Sweet Tides to fix the tear.
We had a wonderful Sunday breakfast with eggs and bacon, freshly baked bread and jam and are now getting ready to start on our last leg before jumping to the Bahamas. 
We will be anchoring out in Lake Worth so we won´t have the luxury of this great wi fi.
It´s 10 am and already 81 degrees!!!

Saturday, December 8, 2007

Sexy Sailor visit

We have been looking forward to Marco's visit since yesterday. And we were very happy to see him!
We had a very peaceful trip from Melbourne, although this morning when we pulled the anchor there was an unexpected vibration on the shaft that made Juan very, very nervous. We sailed into the Marina in Melbourne to get fuel, and were faced with a very shallow channel. We did not run aground by inches. But we managed to squeeze through and then we were on our way. The trip was very uneventful, which is always good. We decided to come to a marina because we knew Marco was coming to visit so it would make it easier. The additional bonus of course is that the marina has wi-fi and we are able to get hooked. Great feeling. Not only did we have a great dinner but we also had a Christmas boat parade, especially organized to welcome Marco!!
Tomorrow he leaves to visit his mom in Miami and we set off on our last leg in Florida!! We will arrive in Palm Beach where we will wait for a good window for the crossing. It will also be our chance to make sure we have all the provisions we need. We will probably rent a car so that we can do that and then start poring over weather charts and talk to other cruisers that will be anchored in Lake Worth to make sure we have the best possible crossing.

Friday, December 7, 2007

Stuck in Melbourne


Ever since we left Jacksonville, the days have become progressively better. Cool at night but gorgeous during the day. Today was no different. It was 60 degrees when we woke up and it got up to 80.2 with crystal clear skies, and a nice breeze in the afternoon that allowed us to open our sails.
The launch of the space shuttle was canceled so we just passed Cape Canaveral.
We traveled 59 miles and arrived in Melbourne at around 4. Sweet Tides was a bit behind because they refueled under way. They bought a jerry can with a pump that worked really well. We anchored right after the bridge in Melbourne. There wasn't a lot of water but it was good enough. When Sweet Tides approached us there was some wind and Idette did not look at her depth sounder because she was worried about the approach. They ran hard aground. They tried everything they could to extricate themselves but nothing worked. We then got our dinghy into the water and Juan rowed over to
Sweet Tides, put their outboard on our dinghy and with a rope managed to swing them around. That did the trick. They were floating again and tied to us.
After all the excitement we decided to go against our rules and have appetizers with some wine while Mike cooked sausages on the grill. We had a German meal: sausages, sauerkraut and potatoes. It was our first dinner outside on the cockpit: a good reason to celebrate.
We are only two days away from Lake Worth in Palm Beach, where we are going to wait for the weather to cross to the Bahamas. Tomorrow it will be three weeks since we left Herrington Harbor.

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Past New Smyrna


Ever since Zingaro had its mishap, Sweet Tides has been craving attention, so now as soon as we start on our way, its stuffing box gets full of water and Mike has to burp it to get rid of it. Once it gets burped it continues happily on its way but apparently there is a lot of water before it's taken care of so its crew is paying a lot of attention.
Zingaro seems to be fine but Juan is listening to every sound and whistle, terrified that something will happen again. So far no complaints.
We had a very smooth ride today. The stretch of ICW between St. Augustine and Daytona is one of the prettiest so far. Full of pelicans, cranes, dolphins and wonderful vegetation and beautiful houses.
We passed Daytona at around 2:30 and continued on past New Smyrna where we have anchored.
The day was splendid and the sunset is beautiful but there are a lot of mosquitoes. No wonder all the houses along the waterway had very large screened areas, covering porches and swimming pools..
Tomorrow there is a launch in Cape Canaveral and we think we will be able to watch it. Both crews are fine and in good spirits and hoping by next week we will be in the Bahamas!

I need to add to items to this posted requested by Sweet Tides.
First, Mike is not holding a cane or a shepherd's staff on the picture in the slide show. No siree! He is holding a gaff which he walked five miles to get at the Sailor's Exchange in St. Augustine. And a gaff I have learned, is a hook to bring in the fish you catch. Judging by the size of his gaff expect nothing else than large, really large, tuna or mahi mahi!

The other thing I have been forgetting to mention, maybe because I'd rather not remember, is that this has been a gourmet cruise. We may not have sailed much, but we sure have eaten well. Idette and I have alternated and more often than not cooperated in the kitchen to create three and four course gourmet meals: salmon with shrimp sauce, rice pilaf, salad, pasta with mushroom sauce, vichyssoise, fajitas with rice and beans, zuchini omelet, plus warm bread, red or white wine and of course cocktails. After the first week we stopped having appetizers because we still want to fit in our bathing suits when we get to the Bahamas!!

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Peaceful day in St. Augustine


It was good to wake up with no schedule, go out for a walk, have lunch in town, visit the fort and then come back to the boat to rest.
St. Augustine is really very pretty and we took a lot of pictures. The weather was absolutely perfect, sunny and clear and just warm enough so we could walk and be comfortable. I always like it a few degrees warmer, but not even I could complain.
Zingaro had its shaft and engine aligned and all seems to be working well. We still have the cutless bearings to worry about but hopefully we won't have to do anything about them.
Tomorrow morning we leave early to try and reach Daytona Beach or thereabouts. We will be anchoring tomorrow so as long as we find a good anchorage before sunset we will be fine.

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

In St. Augustine



Well we made it this time! We left Ortega Landing at 8:30, with the tide going down and it was very shallow in spots, but except for a brief touchdown by Sweet Tides we managed to make it through. It was very cold this morning, around 39 so we dug out our winter gear but during the day it warmed up. It was clear and sunny.
Zingaro behaved well but the difference in speed with the old propeller is at least 10% less, if not more. The vibration is gone but there was a whistle that Juan though could come from the cutlass bearings. Tomorrow a mechanic will come to to try to align the engine.
Sweet Tides wants to stay and visit St. Augustine so we might stay an extra day here.
The trip was uneventful, we made it through the bridges and tied at the St. Augustine Municipal Marina. I guess it makes for more boring blogs but more peaceful trips.

Monday, December 3, 2007

At last!!

Photos will follow but Zingaro is at last floating alongside Sweet Tides at the Ortega Landing Marina! The damage was much less than expected. No need to touch the cutlass bearings. However since we had ordered them we kept the extra set just in case! 
The whole ordeal was that the strut that holds the shaft is lodged inside the hull in a fiber casing that got loose with the vibration and that is where the water was coming in from. It has now been fixed and everything seems to work. Of course the original propeller we put back in is not half as efficient as the the other one but hopefully it will take us safely to the Bahamas.
The faulty propeller is being sent as we speak to the manufacturer, we'll see what they say. 
The rest of the day today will be laundry, grocery store, errands and tomorrow morning the adventure will continue. We have a bridge to get through in downtown Jacksonville with restricted hours and a very shallow Ortega River. So we will have to make sure we go out in high tide.
Hopefully tomorrow night we will be writing from St. Augustine!!