Happy New Year!!!

Here we are wishing you all a Happy New Year!!!
We had a great time in Treasure Cay, lovely beach and wonderful weather. To make the most of it we stayed Saturday night as well, so Sunday morning we woke up really early and sailed back to Marsh Harbour. By 10 we were back. We had planned to stay at a marina so that we could do all our laundry. I went by my guide book and chose a marina where we found out, after we had tied up, that the laundry was not working. Themarina next door did have laundry, so although Juan complained and huffed and puffed and groaned, we moved.
The kids left and are all safely back home. In the meantime we have been cleaning, and washing and organizing: we had four loads of laundry each, so that took up most of the day yesterday. Today we went shopping and continued doing stuff. Nothing glamorous, just work and organizing. Idette's blackberry seems to have died so she spent over four hours today talking to T-mobile and downloading software only to find out she will have to get a new set!
Last night I cooked (Moroccan) and tonight Idette cooked our New Year's dinner: ham, vegetables and wonderful Italian bread. We were hoping to have some champagne at midnight, but Juan and Mike passed out at about 9, Idette and I stayed out listening to the band playing in the restaurant right next the marina (imported from Nassau!), got to see some early bird fireworks and then she also conked out, so here I am at 10:45 writing this post and also ready for bed!
So tomorrow mimosas! That's where the champagne is going! The band is blasting out there but Zingaro and Sweet Tides snore!
New Year is when they celebrate carnival in the Bahamas, it's called Juncanoo. The best Juncanoo is supposedly in Nassau, but around this area it's Green Turtle Cay. The cruisers have organized a trip by bus and ferry so we have signed up for it and will go party. As long as it's during the day we can take it!
After that we will see what the weather brings. A cold front is on its way with very high winds so we may have to stay put for a few days.

Green Turtles in Treasure Cay ...

The golf cart ride in Guana was not a big success, mainly because the roads that go to to the north of the island stop at a new development that occupies the whole peninsula, there are beaches on both sides but not snorkeling which is what we were after. To the south we could find no road. So after having lunch on a covered pier just before the Baker's Point development we returned the cart, with a partial refund, and headed back to the beach where we had been for the last two days.
We considered dinghying to Fowl Cay where apparently is the best snorkeling in the area, and actually tried going out, but turned back. The next day when we went out with the boats we were very glad we didn't even attempt it, it was at least four miles out. And once you get there you have to cross the cut, go out in the ocean and tie to the mooring balls (in the dinghy of course). It did not look doable. If the day had been calm we might have attempted to anchor the boats and go out in the dinghy but it was too windy. But given it was too windy and after all, we are sailboats, we opened the sails had a wonderful run all the way to Treasure Cay.
According to the guide this is the most beautiful beach in the Abacos. I still think Guana is more beautiful but this comes a close second. A lovely bay with calm blue waters looking at the Atlantic but protected by several islands in the distance. The anchorage is in a bay within the development so you pay 10 dollars but have access to all their facilities. And there are green turtles that come up and spy on you while you go out in your dinghy!
P.S. I thought I would post a picture of the reporter for a change. I asked for a young, thin picture but I don't think the photographer tried hard enough.

Paradise continued

There's nippers and there's grabbers and each has their own deadly rum concoction. Nippers is on the beach and at 10 am you already see people sitting there drinking either nippers or kaliks, the local beer. The public docks get filled with small motor boats that come from all over to the beach and to nippers.
Grabbers faces West so it's for sunset drinks, strong drinks. And the sunset yesterday was spectacular, the night sky even more so. And best of all we woke up to a bright sunny day, practically no wind and temperatures reaching 80 for the first time since we arrived.
Yesterday we snorkeled off the rocks and the water was very pleasant, not at all cold. The snorkeling was alright, there were some fish at least to get us started. Today we are going to rent a golf cart and load our snorkeling gear and start exploring the island.
We continue to have wonderful meals, last night it was Idette's turn to prepare a Mexican feast, with chicken fajitas, rice, beans, guacamole, and everything else. Today we are going to have to swim a LOT to be able to use up all those calories!!

Paradise at last!

Finally!! We have been in the Abacos for a week and between the very shallow waters and the instability of the weather we had started to seriously consider heading south as soon as the Sweet Tides kids left. But yesterday we left Elboy Cay, tiptoeing around the bay because it was again shallow, shallow and pointed to Guana Cay, which is the first island after you come into the Sea of Abacos, the longest and the least inhabited. The bay where we moored is very small, there are only 4 sailboats. But the beach is spectacular! Long stretch of pink sands, peppered with rocks to snorkel from.  So if you have no news for a while you know why!

Merry Christmas!!!!!!

The Sweet Tides managed to get together at last. Michael made it on the 4:15 ferry!! Zingaro will share the holiday with them while our thoughts are all spread out, in Arlington with Joanna and Sophia, in Brazil and Uruguay with our family and friends, and in the DC area with all our friends (plus some that are in Peru and Venezuela! and those blanketed in snow in Vermont! and those in Arizona is it? or back in Georgia?) We will be toasting you all tonight. It will be midnight in Brazil and Uruguay but I assure you it will not be midnight for those on EST, because we have been going to bed so early it's pitiful. We are giddy with joy when we make it to nine! and that is hardly ever!
The weather in the Abacos sucks really, it's never sunny for too long, so we have not been swimming or snorkeling. Juan says we will give it to January 6th, if it hasn't improved by then we're off to the Exumas. At least the further south we go the warmer it will get!
This week we'll be going around the islands with the young Sweet Tides, when they leave we'll see what we do.
I am feeling a bit nostalgic today but it's Zingaro's fate to never be completely whole anywhere: if we are here we miss being there, if we're there we freeze, you get the picture. Next Christmas it will be Uruguay!!!

It never rains in the Bahamas!

So it never rains in the Bahamas, right? Wrong, wrong, wrong. (Natalie don't read this.) When it started Juan and Mike went out with their brushes to wash the salt off the boat, then I went out with my shampoo. Of course it stopped when I had foam all over and had to open the shower on the swimming platform and use the water I was trying to save.
When I was all dry it started again and has not stopped.
Obviously I did not go snorkeling, instead I finished my translations, sent invoices, responded to all my holiday emails, and now I am updating my blog. If I don't find something else to do quickly Juan will have me cleaning something in no time!!
But hey! the goddess of uncleanliness is looking after me because I see the clouds opening and maybe we'll get to go to town!!

Manjack Cay

One month and two days after we left Herrington Harbor, we are finally in cruising mood. We anchored here last night and the anchor held firmly all night long and all day today. Juan and Mike have been trying to fix Sweet Tides´ windlass but so far have not been successful. Mike ordered a part that will be delivered to Natalie, but suddenly now they believe the part will not solve the problem. However, after a nice dinner cooked by Mike on the grill tonight and several glasses of red wine, we have decided that the windlass is not a major problem and it will not spoil our trip. He can always throw the anchor by hand if need be. 

This morning, one of the trawlers that was in West End, Spartina, and that had also anchored here, came over in their dinghy to visit and suggested we make sandwiches and have a picnic on the beach. They already had their dinghy in the water and took all of us. It was really nice although not quite warm enough for us to go swimming. Although Mike did go in the water when we came back. We had a hair cutting session: Idette and I cut Juan and Mike's hair and I must say we did a pretty good job. Especially if you don´t look too close. 

The plan now is to go across the Whale passage tomorrow to go to Marsh Harbor and give Green Turtle Cay a pass for the time being. We will be back afterwards. Now it´s best if we are already past the last hurdle and all set for their kids´arrival. 

The last hurdle being the passage out into the ocean and back into the Sea of Abaco, around Whale Cay. According to the guide book, if the weather is not good it can be a very rough passage. You have to go across with the ebbing tide so we are timing ourselves make it in time. If we get there and don´t like it, we´ll come back to Green Turtle Cay. 

Manjack has been great, not only because it´s beautiful but also because its generous inhabitants broadcast wi fi from one of the two houses on land!

Abacos here we come!!

I thought I had managed to post on the blog with the blackberry but obviously I did not. We left West End without problems and travelled the whole day all the way to Great Sale Cay. It was windy and rolly but we did ok.  

Eight boats left West End in the morning and they were all at the anchorage in the evening. Very protected in spite of the wind. We anchored and as we waited for Sweet Tides, Juan decided it would be safer if we did not raft up because the wind was blowing almost 20 knots. But when Sweet Tides tried to anchor their windlass did not work. So they did raft up with us and we had a very calm night because the wind died down. And since it was Juan's birthday we were able to celebrate. 

Today we left at eight and arrived in Manjack Cay which is next door to Green Turtle Cay. A beautiful anchorage with crystal clear waters. It's been a month and a day since we left Herrington Harbor and today we can say we have arrived. It' s not beach weather yet, the northerlies were strong so temperatures are only on the 70s, but will be increasing towards the weekend. The signal is not good enough to send pictures but as soon as we get some decent wifi we'll post some.

Thank you all for your birthday wishes for Juan, we wish you had been here with us!

(I can post with my blackberry, as long as I write the email address correctly, duhhh!)

Windy, windy, windy

About 25 boats arrived from Florida between Friday and Saturday to this marina, and we are all still here. The wind is howling at over 30 knots and nobody is budging. Actually a small trawler ventured out this morning but immediately returned. To go into the banks you have to leave the marina, sail about a mile into the ocean to get back into the channel that leads you into the banks. And that passage looks really nasty right now. Hopefully tomorrow will be better and we'll be able to leave. If not we might have to stay put until Tuesday. We could be stuck in a much worse place. The marina is nice, it has nice facilities, a gym, a couple of restaurants, a heated pool and of course a lovely beach. But of course although it is warm it's not beach weather. So we are doing housekeeping stuff. Sweet Tides are working on putting their room back together after it got all wet during the crossing - they inadvertently left the hatch open and the waves washed over the boat all the time. Juan is waxing and cleaning - when it stops raining - and I am writing my blog. As soon as I am done I just might go and take a nap! 

Quick update and test

Apparently I can post from my blackberry so I am testing.
Both Mike and Zingaro are much better so we may continue our adventures together. Mike only needed a good night' s sleep and Zingaro' s strut seems firmly in place (Juan went in the water) and did some tests, hosing the boat in areas where water could be coming in and it was positive. The waves washed over us all the time and that could have been the culprit.
Things are looking up.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

West End, Bahamas

The bloglins will really have a feast with this post.

We have had practically no rain this trip, but with Olga, things changed. Once we had finished with everything we had to do on land, we left the marina and anchored nearer the inlet so it would be easier to leave in the morning. As soon as we left it started to rain really hard. The entrance to the anchorage was tricky because it had some very shallow spots. We anchored first and waited for Sweet Tides, and waited and waited. They ran aground and the only way to get them out was calling Tow Boat US. So now we also have a picture of Sweet Tides being towed by TBUS, no jealousy there. We tied together and looked at the weather again: 10 to 15 knots, decreasing in the afternoon, waves 2 to 4 feet. We decided we would wake up at 2 am look at the weather and decide whether to leave then or later. It rained all night, hard. At 2 it was raining, at 4 it was raining at 5:30 it was raining. Finally at 6:30 it stopped and the radar showed no more thunderstorms between Florida and the Bahamas so we set off.

It was a horrible ride. Bucking broncos Idette said we should call it. Wind 15 to 20 on our nose and waves 4 to 6 and sometimes higher, running against us, so we were constantly pounding. Awful. We still caught a couple of storms on the way but not big. Three hours to landfall, when Juan went down to look at the shaft yet again because he was still worried about it and not happy with the vibration, he saw there was water, not a lot, but some. First he thought it might come from the stuffing box, but then realized to his dismay that it was coming from the same place where it had been repaired. It was filtering through the casing. He put some epoxy on it and managed to stop the water. But of course he was extremely worried. 

They were the three longest hours of the trip, but we managed to get to West End, to stop at the marina and do customs.

Mike also arrived feeling awful and went straight to bed but he will be feeling better tomorrow, Zingaro won't. 

I think we will have to part ways with Sweet Tides for a while. They have to go to Marsh Harbor to meet their children, so we have spoken with Idette, looked a the charts and now that the worst is over she thinks they will have not problems continuing on their own. They will do short legs and go straight to Marsh Harbor. 

We have spoken to a large boat yard in Freeport, which is 17 miles from West End. We will take Zingaro there and will not leave until we are sure it is repaired. Juan will dive tomorrow and put some epoxy around the strut to make sure we won't have any problems making it to Freeport, and we will try to go when the wind changes so that we can actually sail the 17 miles and use the engine as little as possible!

Once we are all fixed we will meet up with Sweet Tides!!

To be continued...

Bloglins

According to Idette my blog has acquired a life of its own. When things get too quiet and the blog starts getting boring it conjures mishaps so I can talk about them. Actually I didn't need this last "happening" to talk about adventures. I think the blog punishes my laziness because coming into this marina with strong winds was adventure enough. We came in first, with Juan already complaining about the marina being really bad. There were three guys waiting for us, which should have given us a clue. We turned into the slip and while I was throwing the line to one of the guys, Juan was jumping in and out of the cockpit holding on to pilings to keep us straight. In one of those leaps he scratched his knee and started bleeding.
Then Sweet Tides started coming in on our port side, and as Idette turned to get into the slip the wind, which was strong and coming from her starboard, pushed them out completely into the channel where the fuel dock and a big boat were. There was another guy at that pier that took one of their lines and after a lot of work , between him and the three other guys plus Juan, they managed to get them in. Idette says she was really nervous because she thought they would never manage to turn the boat. But they did.
So well I should have told that story and that would have been more than enough.
But no. We had another "adventure" this morning.
Juan always gets up much earlier than me, and although for 35 years I have told him I do not hear noises when I am sleeping but I hate to have the doors closed, with the best of intentions of course, he always gets up and closes both doors.
Today I woke up feeling hot and stuffy. I couldn't breathe properly. So I complained again about him closing the doors. The room smelled of sulfur, I am sure he had bad thoughts about me and did not say anything. But after a while the whole boat smelled.
We had changed the propane and started to smell the tanks and lather them with foam to see if the leak was coming from there. We even asked Mike to smell his tanks to see if Sweet Tides had a leak.
After a lot of sniffing we discovered the source. The battery banks are under our bed and one of the banks was boiling and filling up the room with sulfuric acid!! I could have been poisoned!! We have got rid of the batteries, bought new ones, and now everything is back to normal. We are just waiting for Sweet Tides to finish filling its tanks so that we can be off to the anchorage.
Ok blog, enough now. We want a very boring, easy crossing and so that I do not lack adventures my next posting will deal with the propeller and Autoprop's answer to their malfunction!! We need to start getting the word out about their lousy expensive product and worse customer service.

Getting ready

We spent three days at anchor in Lake Worth and today we moved to a marina further South, nearer the inlet to get ready. As marinas go very basic, more of a yard. The wifi they said they had, only connects if you sit next to their office. It´s very windy and there are mosquitoes so this will be a short post.

We have fueled up, charged the batteries, filled up with water, done the washing and provisioned. The boats are full, really full of food. I do not think we will starve. Not even close.

The weather seems to be holding true to the forecast so we should be leaving at around 3 am on Friday. Tomorrow we return the car at noon, and leave the marina to anchor across from where we are to spend the day resting and getting ready to go! We can´t wait.

Waiting for weather

We arrived here in Lake Worth on Sunday after an almost uneventful trip. Juan and Mike were happily chatting on the walkie talkies commenting on the nice houses along the way and suddenly we went hard aground, I almost fell of my seat. Luckily we quickly got out. Sweet Tides followed us and did the same. It took them a little longer to get out, luckily a power boat went by, created ripples and Idette ably got it out!
Lake Worth if full of boats waiting for weather to cross. We met the crew of one of them yesterday as we landed our dinghy to go to the Supermarket, a Saga 43 from Annapolis. and they should be crossing at the same time. From what we have been hearing of the weather we should be able to cross on Friday, we will leave at 2 or 3 a.m. so as to arrive in West End early and go on into the banks, maybe to Sale Cay.
Tomorrow we will go to a marina to fuel up, fill up the water tanks, the batteries and get a last whiff of wifi before setting off. We will also rent a car to buy some more provisions. Thursday night we will probably anchor near the entrance to the inlet to be ready to go. Of course all these plans will depend on whether the weather in fact will do what it is supposed to: 5 to 10 knot winds, 2 to 3 foot waves from the S. We'll see. Photos will follow.

Super Marco to the rescue

Yesterday as we were motor sailing down Mike noticed a tear on his sail, so this morning before breakfast Marco helped Sweet Tides to fix the tear.

We had a wonderful Sunday breakfast with eggs and bacon, freshly baked bread and jam and are now getting ready to start on our last leg before jumping to the Bahamas. 

We will be anchoring out in Lake Worth so we won´t have the luxury of this great wi fi.

It´s 10 am and already 81 degrees!!!

Sexy Sailor visit

We have been looking forward to Marco's visit since yesterday. And we were very happy to see him!
We had a very peaceful trip from Melbourne, although this morning when we pulled the anchor there was an unexpected vibration on the shaft that made Juan very, very nervous. We sailed into the Marina in Melbourne to get fuel, and were faced with a very shallow channel. We did not run aground by inches. But we managed to squeeze through and then we were on our way. The trip was very uneventful, which is always good. We decided to come to a marina because we knew Marco was coming to visit so it would make it easier. The additional bonus of course is that the marina has wi-fi and we are able to get hooked. Great feeling. Not only did we have a great dinner but we also had a Christmas boat parade, especially organized to welcome Marco!!
Tomorrow he leaves to visit his mom in Miami and we set off on our last leg in Florida!! We will arrive in Palm Beach where we will wait for a good window for the crossing. It will also be our chance to make sure we have all the provisions we need. We will probably rent a car so that we can do that and then start poring over weather charts and talk to other cruisers that will be anchored in Lake Worth to make sure we have the best possible crossing.

Stuck in Melbourne

Ever since we left Jacksonville, the days have become progressively better. Cool at night but gorgeous during the day. Today was no different. It was 60 degrees when we woke up and it got up to 80.2 with crystal clear skies, and a nice breeze in the afternoon that allowed us to open our sails.
The launch of the space shuttle was canceled so we just passed Cape Canaveral.
We traveled 59 miles and arrived in Melbourne at around 4. Sweet Tides was a bit behind because they refueled under way. They bought a jerry can with a pump that worked really well. We anchored right after the bridge in Melbourne. There wasn't a lot of water but it was good enough. When Sweet Tides approached us there was some wind and Idette did not look at her depth sounder because she was worried about the approach. They ran hard aground. They tried everything they could to extricate themselves but nothing worked. We then got our dinghy into the water and Juan rowed over to
Sweet Tides, put their outboard on our dinghy and with a rope managed to swing them around. That did the trick. They were floating again and tied to us.
After all the excitement we decided to go against our rules and have appetizers with some wine while Mike cooked sausages on the grill. We had a German meal: sausages, sauerkraut and potatoes. It was our first dinner outside on the cockpit: a good reason to celebrate.
We are only two days away from Lake Worth in Palm Beach, where we are going to wait for the weather to cross to the Bahamas. Tomorrow it will be three weeks since we left Herrington Harbor.

Past New Smyrna

Ever since Zingaro had its mishap, Sweet Tides has been craving attention, so now as soon as we start on our way, its stuffing box gets full of water and Mike has to burp it to get rid of it. Once it gets burped it continues happily on its way but apparently there is a lot of water before it's taken care of so its crew is paying a lot of attention.
Zingaro seems to be fine but Juan is listening to every sound and whistle, terrified that something will happen again. So far no complaints.
We had a very smooth ride today. The stretch of ICW between St. Augustine and Daytona is one of the prettiest so far. Full of pelicans, cranes, dolphins and wonderful vegetation and beautiful houses.
We passed Daytona at around 2:30 and continued on past New Smyrna where we have anchored.
The day was splendid and the sunset is beautiful but there are a lot of mosquitoes. No wonder all the houses along the waterway had very large screened areas, covering porches and swimming pools..
Tomorrow there is a launch in Cape Canaveral and we think we will be able to watch it. Both crews are fine and in good spirits and hoping by next week we will be in the Bahamas!

I need to add to items to this posted requested by Sweet Tides.
First, Mike is not holding a cane or a shepherd's staff on the picture in the slide show. No siree! He is holding a gaff which he walked five miles to get at the Sailor's Exchange in St. Augustine. And a gaff I have learned, is a hook to bring in the fish you catch. Judging by the size of his gaff expect nothing else than large, really large, tuna or mahi mahi!

The other thing I have been forgetting to mention, maybe because I'd rather not remember, is that this has been a gourmet cruise. We may not have sailed much, but we sure have eaten well. Idette and I have alternated and more often than not cooperated in the kitchen to create three and four course gourmet meals: salmon with shrimp sauce, rice pilaf, salad, pasta with mushroom sauce, vichyssoise, fajitas with rice and beans, zuchini omelet, plus warm bread, red or white wine and of course cocktails. After the first week we stopped having appetizers because we still want to fit in our bathing suits when we get to the Bahamas!!

Peaceful day in St. Augustine

It was good to wake up with no schedule, go out for a walk, have lunch in town, visit the fort and then come back to the boat to rest.

St. Augustine is really very pretty and we took a lot of pictures. The weather was absolutely perfect, sunny and clear and just warm enough so we could walk and be comfortable. I always like it a few degrees warmer, but not even I could complain.

Zingaro had its shaft and engine aligned and all seems to be working well. We still have the cutless bearings to worry about but hopefully we won't have to do anything about them.

Tomorrow morning we leave early to try and reach Daytona Beach or thereabouts. We will be anchoring tomorrow so as long as we find a good anchorage before sunset we will be fine.

In St. Augustine

Well we made it this time! We left Ortega Landing at 8:30, with the tide going down and it was very shallow in spots, but except for a brief touchdown by Sweet Tides we managed to make it through. It was very cold this morning, around 39 so we dug out our winter gear but during the day it warmed up. It was clear and sunny.
Zingaro behaved well but the difference in speed with the old propeller is at least 10% less, if not more. The vibration is gone but there was a whistle that Juan though could come from the cutlass bearings. Tomorrow a mechanic will come to to try to align the engine.
Sweet Tides wants to stay and visit St. Augustine so we might stay an extra day here.
The trip was uneventful, we made it through the bridges and tied at the St. Augustine Municipal Marina. I guess it makes for more boring blogs but more peaceful trips.

At last!!

Photos will follow but Zingaro is at last floating alongside Sweet Tides at the Ortega Landing Marina! The damage was much less than expected. No need to touch the cutlass bearings. However since we had ordered them we kept the extra set just in case! 

The whole ordeal was that the strut that holds the shaft is lodged inside the hull in a fiber casing that got loose with the vibration and that is where the water was coming in from. It has now been fixed and everything seems to work. Of course the original propeller we put back in is not half as efficient as the the other one but hopefully it will take us safely to the Bahamas.

The faulty propeller is being sent as we speak to the manufacturer, we'll see what they say. 

The rest of the day today will be laundry, grocery store, errands and tomorrow morning the adventure will continue. We have a bridge to get through in downtown Jacksonville with restricted hours and a very shallow Ortega River. So we will have to make sure we go out in high tide.

Hopefully tomorrow night we will be writing from St. Augustine!!

Gloom but not doom

The news is better than expected. There is no hole on the hull. The damage was caused by the vibration on the shaft which was so violent that it dislodged the stuffing box, broke the seal and allowed water to come in. Maybe this is not the most correct of explanations but it's pretty much what I understood.
We slept last night aboard Sweet Tides and this morning bright and early we all had showers in the luxurious facilities of the marina club where Sweet Tides is docked. The marina itself is really very beautiful. Pictures will follow in future postings.
Juan went off to see Zingaro while Mike, Idette and I had breakfast on Sweet Tides and waited for the driver from the rental agency to pick us up. After we'd rented the car we came over to take a look a poor Zingaro. To be able to work on the shaft and fiber Juan had completely disassembled the aft berth. Everything went: bed, side lockers, compartments - plus everything we had inside. So it was hard work. The fiber specialist was looking at the damage.
Our super special, expensive British feathering propeller caused the damage. Juan called them but of course they were not to keen the acknowledge they could be at fault: we know two other people that have lost a blade and we ourselves had sent the propeller back to England when there was a recall. The problem obviously had not been fixed.
Later in the day, while Idette and I were driving to Miami, Juan called and explained what they had discovered. Originally he though they would replace the bearings, but in the end decided not to and are working on the fiber. Juan also called Jeanneau and complained of the bad design of the fiber casing where the bearings go. More details to follow.
The fiberglass person agreed to continue working on the boat tomorrow, so if all goes well maybe by Tuesday or Wednesday we can be on our way.
In the meantime Idette and I are sleeping in the lap of luxury in Miami Beach where we stay until Sunday afternoon on a job. Mike and Juan will continue toiling on our behalf. Juan who almost died yesterday with the stress and was very, very depressed, is still worried but much more upbeat.

Gloom and doom in the ICW

Poor proud Zingaro is hanging from a lift like limp bird. And we are really looking like something the cat dragged out of the trash. The good part is Idette and Mike are really taking care of us, feeding us and lifting our spirits And thanks to all our sexy sailors that have been sending their support!
We left Fernandina Beach at 9 :30 because the fog was very thick and we had to wait until it lifted. Two hours later we had crossed the St. Johns bridge in Jacksonville and hit some waves left by a power boat and the vibration we had been feeling before, suddenly became much worse and we just lost control and started taking water.
Sweet Tides came up to us and started towing us while we talked to tow boat US. They made . us turn back and be towed for 5 hours. We crossed downtown Jacksonville, went under bridges that only opened because we were taking water and being towed by Boat US. Sweet Tides was solidly behind us. Both literally and figuratively.
They stopped at Ortega's landing, a very posh marina and we went further so Saddle Point Yard. The lift guys were waiting for us but there was no depth and we were aground under the lift with no room to maneuver. Zingaro had to be turned around by rope, maneuvering between big power boats. The tow boat people did not lift a finger. Maybe it's a question of insurance but they just sat and watched while we suffered. But we turned it around placed it on the lift and saw it hauled.
The maxprop had lost one of its feathers and it cracked the hull of the boat. The yard is big and apparently there is somebody very good with fiberglass. But according to Juan it will be a complicated job because the shaft will have to be realigned as well.
We are now at Sweet Tides, Idette is cooking for us while I feed my addiction. Writing this blog.
Tomorrow Idette and I drive to Miami for a job. That will surely help us take our minds off the disaster!!

Arrived safey yes, but it was a miracle.

What a day!! and What a night! One of these days I will do like my daughter who once in a while writes lists of the ten most something or other and write a list of the ten lessons learned so far. But I am afraid I may be needing a longer list.
Yesterday alone would have added at least five items. It wasn't that we did not look at the weather forecast, because we did. The skippers and Tom when he arrived, spent two days poring over weather charts to decide if we could go offshore.
It is true that we were all sick of the ICW - it had been extremely shallow - and that may have colored our interpretation of the weather forecast because we grossly underestimated the conditions.
We left Isle of Palms marina at 5:50 am. We had to make the Ben Sawyer Bridge which was four miles away and closes at 7 and only re-opens at 9. And we did. As we left the harbor and cleared the breakers the waves were 4 to 6 feet, not too bad but once we left Charleston and turned into our course, we were heading straight into them and the ride was miserable. First mistake, we should have turned back right there, but the weather forecast called for a wind shift in the morning from West to North, which would have meant following seas and thus an easier ride.
So we took the pounding thinking: "Ok, we can do this, it's just a couple of hours". After the couple of hours the wind had not shifted and we continued being punished but by then we were too far ahead to think of turning back and started to consider the inlets ahead for us to come in.
The next feasible one, was Port Royal in Beaufort. We would not arrive to the entrance until 5, we still would have to do another 12 miles up the channel and then turn into the ICW to find a marina. It would be pitch dark so not good.
The next possibility was a few miles down on the other end of Hilton Head where it would just mean a sharp right turn after the channel and a shorter ride, but still arriving at night and still having to find a marina in the dark.
But as we were discussing and pondering all of these options, the wind calmed down to around 6 knots and the seas subsided. The sun came out, everything looked good so faced with two not optimal options - which we should have taken- we decided to pursue our original plan and go on to Fernandina beach.
Bad, bad, bad decision. The winds which should have shifted in the morning to the North finally did so at 4 or 5. The forecast was 5 to 10 knot winds until midnight when they would go up to 15 to 20.
By 8 pm they were 15 to 20 and up to 22. On our back it's true, and following seas. But following us with a vengeance! Really big rollers that threw you off your seat if you were not careful - and Mike can attest to that.
At about two a.m . we were fighting to stay awake. There hadn't been a lot of traffic so we could relax. Then a big container boat hailed us out of our stupor to tell us it was bearing down on us. Tom managed to extract his course and speed and we scrambled to get out of his way as fast as we could. The ship did not make it easy because instead of pursuing its course, it stopped, so we could not figure out too well where he was bearing. Any change from the course we had been heading in changed the angle from which the waves hit us and if the waves were bad when they followed, the minute you turned a little bit into them they were nasty.
That woke us up and prepared us for what we knew would be the worst: turning into the inlet, at night, with 8 to 10 foot seas at a 90 degree angle, that would most likely throw you into the breakers if you were not lucky.
As we approached shore Juan expected the waves to subside, no such luck. And it was as scary as we imagined. I could not even look back at Sweet Tides. It was bouncing from side to side like crazy and I knew I was looking in a mirror. I was half expecting we would be pushed sideways all the way into the water and even wondered whether I should close the hatch to contain the water that would go in! (yeah right!)
The option of waiting outside for an hour until sunrise was too painful to consider, but would have been perhaps more rational.
We got to the red marker at the entrance of the canal and turned. As we feared the wave action was scary and we bounced and bobbed like crazy while searching for the next marker. Finally when we were between the breakers the water calmed down and we made it through!
I was really scared! and so was Juan who kept saying whenever a wave hit us: "I can't control it, I can't control it!". Luckily he did or I would not have been writing this.
Tom and Mike were going through the same, right behind us while Idette had been blissfully asleep for the last two hours, having endured a long shift and a 360 degree turn that made her face the waves and throw Mike off his seat! That is why she still looks radiant today!
We tied to a dock and slept until now. The weather is still nasty so ICW again tomorrow. Oh how I miss your shallow waters!!!
Photos will follow.

Charleston: halfway down the way!

We left Georgetown at around 7 on a dark and dreary morning. Cold and windy, really miserable. The first part of the trip went well, the tide was high and the current helped. But its full moon, so tides are unusually high and unusually low. A few hours later the tide of course went down and it became really, really shallow.
By 1:30 we were almost arriving to Isle of Palms where we had planned to stay and saw a trawler who had been asking for directions to get into the marina, planted firmly in the sand, and desperately calling Boat US and the Coast Guard.
Just so the guy would not feel so lonely, Zingaro hit bottom by a red marker, but luckily just backed out of and went on.
Tom and Bobbie arrived as we were registering in the marina and we have had a great time since. They brought us a feast: turkey, gravy, mashed potatoes, stuffing, cookies, cheese, wine!!! We were too tired to dance though. Maybe tonight.
Right now we are sitting in Zingaro, planning our route for tomorrow. We will leave at 6 and go offshore and arrive in Fernandina Beach the following afternoon. Tom will go with Idette and Mike and Bobbie will drive and meet us there.
The party goes on... No more postings though for a couple of days, don't think we are lost at sea. Cell phones will also probably not work.

Second Week, day 1

No use making too many plans in this business! We left Myrtle Beach bright and early. It was sunny but painfully cold. We wanted to do as much as possible today so tomorrow we would have a short day so as to have more time in Charleston.

The depth was good, the current helped us and then at around 11 the engine in Sweet Tides just stopped. We turned around and threw them a line and started towing them while Mike went down to bleed the engine. That did the trick because it started immediately. We then stopped at a marina a few miles down so that he could change the diesel filters. 

We left at almost one thirty, our option then was to stop in Georgetown. The only marina which could accommodate us is old and falling apart. The town from the river does not look very inviting because it has a large coal plant and smells of sulphur. The docks look ready to fall in the river. But we met the owners of another Jeanneau just like ours on the dock who told us they always stop here because it´s a great town and they recommended a bar on the boardwalk. 

And lo and behold they were right, it´s a nice little town, very clean and the bar they recommended was excellent, it had a nice room at the back near the water which was quieter than the room in front where a band was getting ready to play.

After we had something to eat, we passed through the front room and we found that the band was about our age and played songs from about our time and they were quite good, so we stayed for a while dancing and playing the tambourine and had a great time. We stay still for so many hours on the boat that it felt good to shake our bones a bit!!

Day 7 Myrtle Beach, S.C.

We had put our winter clothes in the laundry bag so when we got up and saw it was grey, dark and miserable, I put on whatever I found that was not as warm but at least was clean. Juan and Sweet Tides were cleverer, they fished in the laundry bag and went back to their winter gear. But squeamish or not we were all more or less miserable in varying degrees.

We had planned to spend the night at an anchorage right after the dividing line between N and S Carolina, if by 4pm we had made it to a pontoon bridge that opens on the hour. If we were lucky and made it by three, we could dock for free by large outlet mall... Well, we miscalculated, the bridge had a delayed opening at 3 which we could have made: as we were approaching we could see in the distance that it was opening. We had called the bridge tender but he was adamant and said we had to sit and wait for the next opening.

The anchorage we had thought of staying at was really shallow - as was most of the ICW - it's full moon and the tide was particularly low so it was hard going at times, but except for a quick bottom kiss by Sweet Tides we managed to scrape by.

So we took the next option which was staying at the Myrtle Beach Yatch Club.

Today it's sunny but freezing again. I have gone to the dirty laundry and recovered my polars. We are planning to anchor in the Minim Creek or the Shante River so that on Sunday we arrive in Isle of Palms really early and have more time with Bobbie and Tom who are coming to meet us!

Day after Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving was a day for to be thankful we made it to a marina!! We left Beaufort on a balmy and sunny morning. Beaufort lies by the sea. The water is clear, it's full of pelicans and seagulls and dolphins and it smells fishy - in the good sense of the word. To leave it and go back to the ICW you go out to the very end of the inlet where the seas beckon. However we decided this was the song of the sirens since the forecast was for gale force winds in the afternoon, so we covered our ears, and eyes and nose and turned back into the ICW. In this area the waterway goes right by the ocean between dunes on one side and rows of houses on the other. The water is shallow and full of sand bars which shift with the currents. So one hour after we'd left Sweet Tides ran aground. Luckily after a few minutes it managed to pry itself loose. Two hours later again, this time they had to open their sail to get out. Then a couple more hours later - to make Sweet Tides feel better - we touched bottom, luckily just touched. But with all the delaying and going slowly because it was shallow we made it to Surf City half an hour before the bridge opens.
A friend of Idette's had suggested we stay at a marina before the bridge, we tried to get in but it was really, really shallow. Also we could see no sailboats, so this probably meant it was not getting any better inside.
As we idled waiting for the bridge to open, something happened to our propeller, Juan had no control of the boat and for a terrifying moment we feared we would be left drifting under the bridge.
While we were idling there, I had gone down and started to make cranberry sauce for our dinner, and while Juan was trying to put the boat in gear he smelled something burning he thought - and decided the transmission was gone and I had not even burned it the cranberry sauce!!
Luckily whatever was loose fell into place and we managed to make it through.
Six miles down there was another marina, I had called earlier but nobody had answered, Idette tried later and managed to talk to the dockmaster who told us we could come in.
As we were getting in we recognized it. It was the same marina we had stayed in on Thanksgiving in 2001!
We docked side to side and had a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner: turkey breast, the now famous cranberry sauce, stuffing, brussel sprouts and a wonderful crumb cake that Idette baked. A feast!!
Photos will follow when we get a better connection. Right now it's my blackberry.
The weather has definitely turned for the worse: wind from the North, dark clouds and colder. Fortunately no rain yet.

Docked in Beaufort

Zingaro and Sweet Tides are docked in Beaufort. The day was not too long. We arrived in Beaufort at 3pm, with temperatures on the 70s. We are down to only one layer of clothing!
No adventures on the trip, everything was nice and easy and we were greeted by dolphins that entertained us while we waited for the bridge to open.
The weather forecast is not too good though and we will probably have to continue plodding along the ICW for a few more days. Not that we have any complaints, so far depths have been OK, and the plastic enclosures really make a difference. The wind has been on our nose and we have not felt it.
Lovely to have wifi again!!!

day 4

The hardest thing this last leg was being incommunicado!!T-Mobile silent almost the whole day and Verizon also mostly mute - except for a brief moment when Joanna called and all we heard was hello? Worse than nothing because until we could get the Sat phone going, and that also took some time, when I was able to call her back and find out all was well, of course I went through every possible bad scenario!!! (my crazy mind, not her fault)
The day began very foggy and humid but as the hours went by the fog got burnt, the sun shone and our thermometer showed 74 degrees!!!
We arrived in Belle Haven at 4:30 with plenty of daylight, anchored, tied up together and had a most pleasant night.
Today we plan to arrive in Beaufort, also around the same time and tie up at the Town Marina. It's sunny and pleasant and best of all the phones are working so I am posting this entry!
Again I am trying to post photos but I am afraid with the blackberry connection it's not going to happen. Maybe tonight from Beaufort we'll find some friendly wi-fi.

Day 3

No withching hour today, we just plodded along the ICW for hours on end. The only excitement was early in the morning. We left the marina at 7:45 to make sure we made the bridge, which was about 3 miles away. It opened at 8:30, so we gave ourselves plenty of time. but we took a wrong turn and were left facing an unexpected bridge which looked taller than the one on the map but not tall enough for us to go through. Mike however said he read 65 feet on the pillar - the height at which we can go through and said he would try. We stayed back, but as they approached I could see they would not make it and closed my eyes. Luckily Idette who was at the wheel backed out. It was only 47 feet - so it could have been a disaster!
We went through the locks as you see from the pictures - practicing for Panama?? and then went on. There are several bridges along the way that open either on the hour of the half hour and we had to wait in several. There were power boats and sailboats all in line going South. We met Voila, the boat that let us have their fuel, and a couple of young Canadians with their 3 and 1 year olds on board!!!! Also going to the Bahamas.
At about 5:15 we found a nice spot just behind Buck Island, North Carolina and anchored. It was calm and humid. There was a moon but veiled under the fog. We had some wine to celebrate we had arrived in North Carolina. I won't have any more until we get to South Carolina because I woke up with a headache!!
It's 7:20 and we are under way!

Day 2

We left the anchorage at 7 am after a nice and toasty under the comforters in the anchorage. Sleeping was good, getting up in the cold was another matter. But the day was sunny, calm, glassy waters so we motored our way at a good speed, thinking we would make it past the locks in the ICW, rather than in Portsmouh as we had originally planned.

One pm for the second day in a row proved to be the witching time because, we were happily passing Salt Ponds marina with Norfolk in the distance when Sweet Tides called us, they had run out of diesel. So we turned right back and started to consider options. They called Boat US and it would take an hour at least for them to get there. Juan had seen a cruiser approaching with gallons of diesel tied around deck and asked whether he should call them and offer to buy five gallons. As if they had read our minds they called us and asked if we needed help, and we immediately asked for the diesel, which they graciously agreed to let us have.

We motored over to them and they tied a rope to the top of the bottle threw the rope at us and we fished it. We put the diesel in one of our containers and then returned the bottle with money which we put in a ziplock, we made a hole in the middle of the bag, threaded it through the rope placed it on top and threw the rope. It worked. Thanks Voila!

We then motored over to Sweet Tides and repeated the procedure, Mike not only had to put in the diesel but also bleed the engine so it would start, which it did after a few minutes.

We then motored over to Salt Ponds, filled up, filled up an extra five gallons, and made our way back to Norfolk.

By then it was almost four so we ended up arriving in Portsmouth at night - it was a quarter to six when we made it to Tidewater Marina - where if nothing else we have free wifi provided by the Holiday Inn across the road. Thank you Holiday Inn. I love open networks, never put keys in your networks, it serves no purpose but to increase the revenue of the provider!

Day 2

Day 1

We left Herrington Harbor after 7am, of course we had plans to leave earlier but Sweet Tides's alarm did not go of, but it was still early enough (by my book maybe not Juan's). Zorra, Nehalenia and Last Call were all awake to see us off, and they escorted us for a an hour or so. It was sad to see them turn back.
The wind was on our nose, temperatures on the 40s, but our enclosures kept us protected. We had planned to go all the way to Deltaville but as we got to the mouth of the Potomac the water got really rough, 4 foot waves on the bay are surprising to say the least, and were coming from every which way, the wind was hitting 20 knots, so with all of that and the current against us we were at least 2knots below our speed over water. After Smith Point it had not got much better so we ended up deciding to tuck in at the Wycomico. Idette found Mills Creek on her guide and it was absolutely perfect. We were anchored and tied at 5:37. We had dinner immediately and by 8 were fast asleep, with every intention of leaving at 6 today but - well we left at 7, although we did wake up at five.
We are now motoring down the bay, the temperature is 57.6, it's sunny and the wind is only 6 knots. It's almost warm!! Tonight we will stay at Tidewater marina past Norfolk, at least that is the plan!

Leaving one day later!!!

Zingaro and Sweet Tides are getting heavier and heavier with all the food and "stuff" we are bringing to the boat to make it our home for the next four months. Hopefully they will continue to float. We will not be able to leave on Friday but will definitely leave on Saturday, November 17th at the crack of dawn!!

12 days to go

Zingaro and Sweet Tides on countdown time making sure all systems are go. For the time being not all them are, but there are still 12 days to go! We are counting on leaving at noon on Friday the 16th weather permitting.